Benromach


Name:
Rating:
Benromach Organic
★★★★★
Score:
88/100
ABV:
43%
Region:
Speyside, Scotland
Body:
Medium
Intensity:
Medium-light
Texture:
Medium
Balance:
Great
Best served:
Neat
Theme(s):
Lush virgin wood encased in a mustiness that is cut through by papaya, pepper, honeyed fruit, pine cones, freshness and some lollies!
Tasting notes:
The theme portrayed by this whisky is a youthfulness that delivers pulses of fresh – almost sappy – new wood; a necessity so this whisky could in fact be called 100% organic. There is no sherry or bourbon influence in this whisky, just the wood and the organic ingredients.

I had the opportunity to taste this whisky at home, and to be honest I was initially disappointed. Rather than write a review, I let the whisky rest in the glass for half an hour and returned to it. Much better! The burst of immaturity I got had dissipated, and in its place was a beautiful lush oak with a shimmer of honeyed sweetness and some peppery notes (almost like papaya seeds smelt while still on the fruit).

Nose: This whisky releases a freshness that wafts up in the glass and carries freshly cut papaya drizzled with honey, as the seeds provide some sparks of pepper encased in earthiness and the fruit a mellow sour-sweetness. There is a mustiness about this whisky that over time develops into fresh oak and tree sap as mild notes of fresh ginger chime in the cloud of young whisky. Let the whisky rest further and find ground cocoa and fresh pine cones while an astringent (but pleasant) punch of alcohol remains a constant and cuts through the gentle lolly-shop sweetness (green, red, yellow and orange jelly beans) and wet dough.    

Taste: Gentle on the palate, a mild honeyed sweetness takes shape within the dry oak laden bitterness that develops. The soft and fresh wood is a constant theme as a sweet sappiness is evident on the palate, and all the while the buzz of ginger and lime zest glows.

Finish: This whisky offers a descent finish that radiates a lush bitterness; very “natural”!  
Likes:
A beautiful nose prepares the palate for a very new whisky experience; an all organic and “virgin” wood matured spirit!
Dislikes:
The whisky has undertones of immaturity and a bitterness that struggles to find balance
Price:
$100 (Aus), $56 (US)

Name:
Rating:
Benromach Traditional
★★★★☆
Score:
84/100
ABV:
40%
Region:
Speyside, Scotland
Body:
Medium
Intensity:
Medium-light
Texture:
Medium
Balance:
Superb
Best served:
Neat
Theme(s):
A light and fresh whisky with honeyed Speyside charm, star fruit and berry compote  

Tasting notes:
Nose: A honeyed sweetness rises up and tickles the nostrils with a bouquet of floral notes, and a lovely Speyside freshness. Soft and light, the sweetness is thin and its fragility is evident as it occasionally gives way to the sweetness of cooked peaches in a cinnamon infused syrup. The cinnamon adds a wood spice note with some bitterness.

Taste: The sweetness softly massages the palate, and tastes of honeyed fresh fruit and, in particular, star fruit and berry compote; the sugary sweetness of the wood spiced infused syrup is balanced by the tartness of the fruit and the bitterness of the oak influence. The oak does not play a major role, however, and instead moderates the sweetness that never really threatens to dominate the show.

Finish: The bitterness and oak influence is more prominent on the finish, as dry oak lingers with a dense layer of pure cocoa and mild shimmers of tart under-ripe fruit
Likes:
A beautiful whisky that expressed a beautiful honeyed fruit character 
Dislikes:
Tends to err on the bitter oak side towards the finish
Price:
$75 (Aus), $27 (US), £25

Name:
Rating:
Benromach Sassicaia
★★★★☆
Score:
81/100
ABV:
45%
Region:
Speyside, Scotland
Body:
Medium
Intensity:
Medium
Texture:
Medium
Balance:
Good
Best served:
Neat
Theme(s):
A striking syrupy sweetness is met with glazed cherries that appear to have lost their tartness, some dark chocolate and dry tannic wood
Tasting notes:
Nose: There is a vibrant sweetness within the aroma of this whisky that shines with glazed cherries and dates and flicker though a layer of dark chocolate and oaky vanilla bean; a refection of the fact that this whisky is finished for two years in Sassicaia wine casks (cabernet sauvignon mostly).

Taste: This is offers a gust of sweetness on the palate that, unfortunately, seems to get a little too excited and runs off the edge as the glazed cherries lose their tart fruitiness and impart mostly syrupy sweetness that wrestles with dry wood and a tannic, almost furry, mouth-feel (there is that medium-heavy red wine shining though).  

Finish: The syrupy sweetness lingers for a while and gradually fades and is replaced by subtle shades of spice and bitter oak.
Likes:
Subtle shades of wood and wine influence, something different
Dislikes:
I am not sure this works, mainly because of the sweetness and strange notes that emerge
Price:
$100 (Aus), £32 (UK)

Name:
Rating:
Benromach 10 Year Old
★★★★☆
Score:
82/100
ABV:
43%
Region:
Speyside, Scotland
Body:
Medium
Intensity:
Medium
Texture:
Medium
Balance:
Good
Best served:
Neat
Theme(s):
A sweet Speyside with some dark chocolate and candied stone fruit
Tasting notes:
Nose: The aroma of lemon leaves and citrus fruit gently emerges with vanilla bean and some notes of thin chocolate milk. The chocolate milk is dark and splashed on sweet candied stone fruit that have been layered with manuka honey.

Taste: Lighter than expected on the palate, there is no surge of sweetness or bitterness and instead the whisky makes a lazy start off the running block. Eventually the sweetness develops and is quite syrupy as shavings of dark chocolate melt on the tongue and release some bitterness that quells the surge of candied stone fruits.

Finish: The candied stone fruits – cherry in particular – are drowned out by a cocoa and wood bitterness with shimmers of honey  
Likes:
Very “more-ish” and drinkable
Dislikes:
The sweetness tends to dominate
Price:
$90 (Aus), $42 (US), £28 (UK)

Name:
Rating:
Benromach Cask Strength
★★★★☆
Score:
83/100
ABV:
60.3%
Region:
Speyside, Scotland
Body:
Medium
Intensity:
Medium-high
Texture:
Medium-oily
Balance:
Good
Best served:
Neat
Theme(s):
The aroma of lemon leaves and fresh citrus is replaced by distilled citrus fruit and burnt orange on the palate that, with a splash of water, relax into rum drenched raisin cake
Tasting notes:  
Nose (neat): Surprisingly light on the nose for a cask strength whisky, this expression offers crushed lemon leaves fallen alongside ripe citrus fruits; the zip of lemon juice, the tang of lime and the dry sourness of grapefruit. There is a mild gust of dry wood that is accompanied by spicy nutmeg and a sweet but dense floral note; a floral note that weaves in and out of freshly cut grass emptied out of a lawnmower.

Taste (neat): Kapow! There is that burst of honeyed sweetness with some attitude, as the citrus notes take a back seat to sugary (rather than fruity) sweetness; though the citrus theme continues with bitter orange extract and the flavour of zest (though without the acidic burn and tart sourness). The mouth-feel is luscious, as a buttery creaminess develops with a piercing sour-bitterness that signals a return of the dry and sour grapefruit rind alongside spicy oak.

Finish (neat): The bitterness lingers as burnt orange develop and remain in the tongue with the combination of dry wood and sugary sweetness.

A splash of water hardly opens up the nose, but on the palate the flavour of rum drenched raisin cake develops with shavings of orange zest and dark chocolate alongside a selection of spices and that surge of dry oak.
Likes:
Powerful and assertive, with lots of complexity
Dislikes:
That syrupy sweetness takes a lead and seems to unbalance the experience a little  

Name:
Rating:
Benromach Peat Smoke
★★★★★☆
Score:
91/100
ABV:
46%
Region:
Speyside, Scotland
Body:
Medium
Intensity:
Medium
Texture:
Medium
Balance:
Superb
Best served:
Neat
Theme(s):
The gentle shine of floral peat breathes balance and life into a sweet Speysider
Tasting notes:
Nose: A mild floral bouquet shimmers with sweetness within the thin cloud of gentle peat; dry grass mingles with lush green and the softest smoke. Beneath Sweet green apple and pear glimmer though the thin cloud of peat, as their skin releases the occasional spark of tartness. As the whisky rests the floral notes become more prominent and orchard fruits develop; apricot and white peach alongside fresh sappy twigs and the scent of oak.

Taste: The gentle peat counteracts the honeyed sweetness, as tart winter berries burst on the palate releasing gentle surges of bakery spices and Italian hot chocolate layered with golden honey and bakery spices; cinnamon and nutmeg in particular. The peat is luscious and plump, and accompanies the sweet Speyside theme beautifully.

Finish: Shouldering coals of peat die out with a wave of sweet honeyed Speyside charm. This whisky, in my view, just “works”!
Likes:
The gentle glow of peat that balances against the sweetness
Price:
$63 (US), $100 (Aus)

Glengoyne 18 Year Old


Spirit Type:
Name:
Rating:
Whisky
Glengoyne 18 Year Old
★★★★★☆ 
Score:
93/100
ABV:
43%
Region:
Highlands/Lowlands
Body:
Medium-full
Intensity:
Medium
Texture:
Medium-oily  
Balance:
Heavenly
Best served:
Neat
Theme(s):
Buttery toffee is swept away by more bitter orange marmalade as a foray of spicy oak and dried fruit is softened by waves of creamy vanilla

Tasting notes:
“Unhurried since 1933”, the Glengoyne distillery takes pride in its slow distillation and use of warm air – and nothing else – to dry its barley. This makes whisky from Glengoyne distinctive, boasting a purity that is “untarnished” by peat and instead expressing elegantly the cohesion of the distillate, oak and sherry. Beautiful!

Nose: Rich gooey toffee releases its caramelized sugary aroma, though it is far from burnt because while there are notes of bitterness and sourness they do not resemble burnt toffee. Instead, these notes are pleasantly astringent almost like lemon and eucalyptus cough crops (the Australian brand that comes to mind is “Butter Menthol”). Dried apricot rests in the glass as it suddenly becomes more plump and releases a fresh fructose in the form of freshly cut green apples as a much enjoyed sourness competes with the sweetness. All the whole a soft ripple of vanilla bean softens the oak which fills the glass with its beautiful complexity and the aroma of sherry; lovely from a first fill cask.

Taste: The buttery toffee theme on the nose proceeds to the palate with a velvety luscious texture. A sudden burst of spicy oak releases a softening wave of vanilla and fresh almond that is followed by a foray of dried fruit and orange extract. The shimmers of sweetness then fade and a bitter marmalade (with orange peel) takes over as a dry fog of bitterness and butterscotch lingers.  

Finish:  The finish is long and enjoyable, with a cloud of bitter dryness remaining on the base of the tongue.

Likes:
Superb nose that elegantly expresses diverse complexity and a hard hitting foray on the palate
Dislikes:
A stubborn bitterness loiters as a wanted wave of sweetness never comes
Price:
$150 (Aus), £69 (UK)

Scotch Malt Whisky Society Tasting


On Tuesday 11 June 2013 I had the opportunity to attend a tasting of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society ("SMWS") as a guest. My sincere thanks to SMWS for the very kind invitation and for their wonderful hospitality on the night.

SMWS? 

The SMWS is an organisation that mainly:
  • buys casks from distilleries and bottles its own whisky; 
  • allows people to join its "society" and become members; 
  • conducts tastings which can be enjoyed by the public or members at a reduced rate; and 
  • sells its bottled whisky to members. 
Therefore in addition to being a "society" for whisky lovers SMWS also bottles and sells its own whisky. This makes it an "independent bottler" of whisky with a twist; the twist being that these expressions are not widely available on the market and appear, at least from what I can tell, fairly exclusive and, to be honest, a little too expensive in my view.

The Tasting: What happened on the night?

The tasting was held at Southbank, Melbourne. The night began with a very warm and friendly group of people meeting over a complimentary beer or wine. The conversation flowed and it was easy to mingle into the group; a mingling that became easier as the night wore on and whiskies consumed reached six! The night involved tasting five SMWS whiskies "blind" in progression over the course of a three course (and delicious, I might add) meal. It was lots of fun. The chatting was fueled by the need to guess the whisky, and then without warning its identity would be revealed and the room would fill with the familiar sound of "ahhhhhh"; a sound which would eventually fade as the group's attention eagerly turned to the next whisky!

Whisky 0 was served at the start, with the intention to fire up everybody's taste buds and allow a comparison between this commercially available whisky and SMWS bottlings. It was later revealed that this whisky was the excellent Glenlivet 12 Year Old (which reinforced that SMWS bottlings are at cask strength and not "cut down");

Whisky 1 was a 12 year old Arran, SMWS 121.57;

Whisky 2 was an 8 year old Ardmore, SMWS 66.39;

Whisky 3 was a 28 year old Glenfarclas, SMWS 1.169;

Whisky 4 was a 16 year old Ben Nevis, SMWS 78.40;

Whisky 5 was a 21 Year Old Laphroaig, SMWS 29.129;

The common theme I identified in all these whiskies was that while they were all excellent, they were, for lack of a better word, "intense". There was very little subtlety about them, and while they certainly offered fireworks I found that some were heavily dominated by a particular characteristic (for example, big sweet sherry notes). This intensity had more to do with what I felt was a prominent characteristic (sherry, peat or the interaction between the two for example) rather than the alcohol level of the whiskies, being at cask strength.

I enjoyed all the whiskies very much, though it was not quite love at first taste!  



NZ Whisky Co DoubleWood 10 Year Old


Spirit Type:
Rating:
Whisky
★★★★★
Score:
86/100 
ABV:
40% 
Region:
New Zealand  
Body:
Medium  
Intensity:
Medium  
Texture:
Medium 
Balance:
Excellent  
Best served:
Neat 
Theme(s):
Honey and mape, red grape, tannins, vanilla bean, ripe persimmon, wine 

Tasting notes:
Nose: Beautiful golden honey is drizzled over a some maple syrup drenched wholemeal crumpet, but develops even more complexity and resembles manuka honey with some herbaceous notes with crushed walnuts and freshly sliced red seeded grape. This whisky has a beautiful nose, absolutely delectable. 

Taste: A beautiful glowing maple sweetness is interrupted by a strange note, almost like burnt wood with hints of charcoal and "furry" tannins (almost like the peel of a ripe persimmon). The red grape has an initial syrupy sweetness that is mellowed by an oak led bitterness and some mild bay-leaf with sweet vanilla bean infused mulled wine. 

Finish: A bitter-sweetness lingers on the palate as fruity sourness interacts with sugary sweetness, almost akin to dry grape drizzled with honey. 
Likes:
Lovely sweetness that shines with some decent oak influence 
Dislikes:
A strange note develops, almost like burnt wood/over cooked bay-leaf 
Price:
$133 (UK) 

NZ Whisky Co 1989 22 Year Old


Spirit Type:
Rating:
Whisky
★★★★★☆
Score:
92/100 
ABV:
51.4% 
Region:
New Zealand  
Body:
Medium-full
Intensity:
Medium-high (not too piercing) 
Texture:
Medium 
Balance:
Superb 
Best served:
Neat
Theme(s):
Freshness, spicy oak (cloves, nutmeg), chocolate raisin/orange cake, citrus, earthy 

Tasting notes:
Nose: Gusts of freshness swirl in the glass with the beautiful aroma of dried barley as notes of vanilla and dark chocolate raisin cake topped with a edge of lime add some sweetness and citrus tang to an otherwise earthy character  The oak does not dominate, and instead plays its role and lovely spice in the form of cloves and nutmeg. As the whisky rests, the chocolate raisin cake becomes more noticeable with some roasted mashmallow and shavings of orange peel. 

Taste: A powerful surge of lime and lemon zest cuts through the oak as waves of dark chocolate and vanilla bean mellow the fierce onslaught of spice. This is seriously beautiful whisky, an old New Zealand whisky rescued by NZ Whisky Co and bottled at a great time in its maturation. 

Finish: A strong bitterness lingers on the base of the tongue, almost like a recently consumed honey coated block of dark chocolate. 

Likes:
Sensationally smooth and boasting a beautiful balance, this is very drinkable whisky with a beautiful freshness and earthiness 
Dislikes:
While it is drinkable, the whisky needs (and deserves!) lots of attention to be unpacked properly  
Price:
$206 (NZ)